La Grave is a quiet, little village in France
with a lot of appeal for ice climbers and ski mountaineers. La Meije
provides a fantastic ski descent of over 2,000 metres and the narrow
valley below has many waterfalls which freeze in the winter months giving
some incredible ice climbs.
The north facing slopes see no sun and are
very cold so ideal for climbing. This is where probably the most popular
route, Le Pylon, is found. Unfortunately it can also be the busiest and it
is not uncommon to see the light of head torches on the route at six in
the morning and late on into the evening too. There are many other
routes including La Nuit Sera Fraiche, La Croupe de la Poufiasse and
Colere du Ciel to name just a few.
In January 2006, there were icefalls in
condition that I have not seen in a climbable state since my first trip
there five years ago. This emphasized to me that it really is a case of
just getting there and seeing what are the best routes to do. Over a two
week period, we managed to find routes that we either had to ourselves or
share with one or two considerate parties. I have to admit we avoided Le
Pylon, good route though it is! By comparison, January 2007 was very mild
and very few routes in the La Grave valley were in condition. We climbed
instead at Alpes d'Huez and at the Col du Lauteret which are higher and
were therefore in better condition.
Some of the climbs on the south facing slopes
are only a few minutes from the road - Caturgeas and Les Moulins being two
of the most obvious. Given the growing popularity of the area it is well
worth getting hold of a copy of the guidebook (details below) to allow
other climbing routes to be explored. There is also a Bureau des Guides in
the village and this is where daily weather forecasts are posted.
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La Grave - rarely touched by the sun in winter means great icefall climbing
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La Meije, 3,982 m high giving a ski descent of 2,150 metres
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Fi on Le Pylon, 2002, one of the most popular routes, 70m, grade 1,3 (left) and 1,4 (right)
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Many climbers on both routes on Le Pylon
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La Gorge or Cascade de la Meije, 2003, 150 metres, grade 1,3
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Short pitches, icy bulges - La Gorge is a great place to practice.
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Ian tentatively crossing a semi-frozen pool on La Gorge
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Ron on steep ice on Les Moulins, 2003, 600 metres if climbed in full and grade III,6
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More steep ice on Les Moulins, 2003
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Mini Moulins is just minutes from the road, 200 metres, grade II, 4+, great ice climbing!
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Ron on Mini Moulin's first pitch, 2003
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The upper pitches of Mini Moulins, 2003
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La Nuit Sera Fraiche, 100 metres, II,3+
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La Colere du Ciel, 300m, grade II,3 - Fi on the first pitch, 2004
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Ron climbing the third pitch on La Colere du Ciel, 2004
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Fi on the top pitch of La Colere du Ciel - it was steeper than it looked!
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and abseiling back down
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La Croupe de la Poufiasse, 220m, II,4+, 2004
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Ron thinking about the next pitch on La Croupe !
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The final pitch is very steep and often not complete - we were lucky!
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